Brand Guide
Hermès
Hermès Jewelry's History—From a Harness Workshop to Parisian Fine Jewelry
In 1837, Thierry Hermès opened a harness workshop in Paris, crafting harnesses and saddles for horse-drawn carriages. The discipline of saddlery — making every piece strong and precise enough for horse and rider — remains the foundation of everything Hermès creates today. Since 1880, the house has been based at 24 Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, and the functional forms of its equestrian past — buckles, bits, stirrups and chains — later became the signature motifs of Hermès jewelry.
Hermès jewelry was born from these objects. In 1923, a collar made for a client's bulldog became the Collier de Chien, which was transformed into a women's belt in 1927 and later into a bracelet. In 1938, Robert Dumas of the Hermès family designed the Chaîne d'Ancre, inspired by the anchor chain of a ship. Made of oval links crossed by a central bar, this chain has endured for more than 80 years as the most iconic motif in Hermès jewelry.
Since 2001, Pierre Hardy has led Hermès jewelry. Starting with silver, he expanded the house into gold and diamond fine jewelry, and in 2010 he presented Hermès's first high jewelry collection — pieces such as a necklace inspired by a riding whip and a ring shaped like a horse's hoof, reimagining the house's equestrian heritage in diamonds. With the Kelly line, which turns the turn-lock clasp and clochette of the Kelly bag into jewelry, Hermès continues to translate its icons into the language of jewelry.
Today, Hermès offers a wide range of jewelry centered on fine jewelry in 18k gold and diamonds, alongside silver, enamel and high jewelry. Rather than chasing trends, signature collections such as Chaîne d'Ancre, Kelly and Collier de Chien have stayed true to forms born from the house's long history — which is why they have been cherished across generations and hold their value strongly on the resale market.
Collections
Hermès's Most Iconic Collections
| Collection | Key Features | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Chaîne d'Ancre | The anchor-chain motif designed by Robert Dumas in 1938 — oval links crossed by a central bar — in 18k rose, yellow and white gold, including diamond-set models such as Enchaînée and Contour | Buyers who want the Hermès icon in gold, unisex and everyday wear |
| Kelly | The turn-lock clasp and clochette (key holder) of the Kelly bag, in 18k rose or white gold, plain or diamond-set | Hermès bag lovers, gifting, signature pieces |
| Collier de Chien | The pyramid studs and O-ring born from a 1923 dog collar, in 18k rose and yellow gold rings and bracelets, with pavé diamond models | Bold, statement styles and collectors |
ONE OF ONE's Insight
Hermès jewelry enjoys steady resale demand thanks to the strength of the brand. 18k gold Chaîne d'Ancre and Collier de Chien gold bracelets and rings are the most actively traded pieces, and diamond-set Collier de Chien pieces find new owners especially quickly when priced right.
Material changes value dramatically, even within the same design. Hermès often releases the same motif in both 925 silver and 18k (750) gold, so always check the hallmark to confirm a piece is gold before you buy. For gold pieces, gold weight and diamond setting are what drive value.
On gold jewelry, deformation matters more than surface scratches. Stretched links, dented bangles, missing diamonds and a history of resizing all affect the price. Heavier vintage gold Chaîne d'Ancre pieces and discontinued designs can even command a premium.
Keeping the original orange box, pouch and proof of purchase such as the receipt is recommended, both for buyers to know exactly what they're getting and for sellers to get full value for their piece.
Chaîne d'Ancre
In 1938, Robert Dumas designed the Chaîne d'Ancre, inspired by the anchor chain that holds a ship in place. Its oval links crossed by a central bar create a simple, powerful form that has defined Hermès jewelry for more than 80 years.
Bracelet
Ring
Necklace
Earrings
Kelly
The Kelly collection carries the details of Hermès's legendary Kelly bag into jewelry. The turn-lock clasp that opens and closes the bag and the clochette that holds its key shine like small sculptures on rings and bracelets.
Kelly Ring
Kelly Clochette Ring
Kelly Bracelet
Kelly Cadenas Pendant
Collier de Chien
Born from a collar made for a client's bulldog in 1923, the Collier de Chien became Hermès's boldest icon with its pyramid studs and central O-ring. After the belt and leather bracelet, it was reborn as a gold bracelet in 1949, and today continues as fine jewelry in 18k gold and diamonds.
Ring
Diamond Ring
Bracelet
Diamond Bracelet
Hermès Care Guide
How to Care for Your Hermès Jewelry
Hermès gold jewelry is built to be worn every day, from the anchor links of Chaîne d'Ancre to the pyramid studs of Collier de Chien, and a little regular care keeps each piece looking its best.
Daily Care Tips
Put your jewelry on after perfume, hair spray and lotion have dried, and take it off before swimming, exercising or cleaning. Avoid knocks that can dent a bangle or stretch the links of a chain bracelet.
Cleaning Your Hermès Jewelry
Wipe gold pieces gently with a soft, lint-free cloth, or rinse briefly in lukewarm water with a mild neutral detergent and dry thoroughly. Clean diamond pavé on Collier de Chien pieces and the spaces between the studs with a very soft brush, since dirt collects in the recesses.
Storage Recommendations
Store each piece separately in its soft pouch or a lined case so that diamonds and metal do not scratch other pieces. Keep chain bracelets and necklaces closed and flat to prevent tangles.
Professional Inspection & Polishing
Have clasps, toggle closures and diamond settings checked by a professional about once a year, and polish the gold only when needed, since polishing removes a very small amount of metal.
Maintaining Long-Term Value
Keep the original orange box, pouch, receipts and service records together. Avoid unnecessary resizing or alterations, since original condition and complete papers help at resale.
Shop Authentic Pre-Owned Hermès Jewelry Worldwide
If you're looking to buy authentic pre-owned Hermès jewelry online, visit the ONE OF ONE eBay Store.
We offer a carefully curated selection of genuine Hermès necklaces, bracelets, rings, and earrings. Every piece is professionally authenticated by our in-house luxury specialists before being offered for sale and is securely shipped to customers worldwide through eBay's trusted international marketplace.
Whether you're searching for Chaîne d'Ancre, Kelly, Collier de Chien, or other Hermès gold jewelry, you can shop with confidence knowing that authenticity is our highest priority.
Every Hermès piece is carefully inspected using our proprietary authentication process, developed through years of experience handling thousands of authentic luxury jewelry and watch creations. From verifying hallmarks and craftsmanship to examining gemstones and construction details, our goal is to ensure that every piece we offer meets the highest standards of authenticity.